What are the Photoprotective effects of Niacinamide?
Niacinamide has been shown to reduce cell damage caused by solar radiation, which occurs, in part, by the generation of free radicals or unstable molecules. Niacinamide protects because it prevents the depletion of NAD and ATP levels, which would otherwise be decreased by exposure to ultraviolet rays. Thus, niacinamide, applied in topical products, would serve to maintain the energy required by enzymes involved in skin repair.
In addition, another benefit of niacinamide is that it prevents the negative effects that solar radiation has on the immune system. Therefore, rather than directly protecting against damage caused by UV light, as sunscreens do, niacinamide in serum or cream increases repair processes and keeps the immune system in shape.
Reduces wrinkles, increases skin hydration and elasticity
Another benefit of niacinamide is that it prevents skin ageing. Several studies using topical 4% and 5% niacinamide for 8 and 12 weeks have shown significant improvements in skin appearance. Reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, reduction in pigmentation, and an increase in skin elasticity and hydration have been observed. NAD levels decrease with age and niacinamide would act to prevent this decrease.
Relatedly, niacinamide has been shown to increase collagen production in both cultured fibroblasts and human skin. Also, it increases the production of lipids (oils) such as ceramides, free fatty acids and sphingolipids, which form the matrix of the epidermis and contribute to restoring the skin barrier. Lastly, products with niacinamide stimulate the proliferation of keratinocytes, which are essential cells for maintaining the structure and functioning as a barrier of the epidermis.
Niacinamide prevents skin pigmentation, reduces blemishes and melasma
Niacinamide serums have been shown to inhibit skin pigmentation by a different mechanism than vitamin C. Vitamin C prevents melanin synthesis by inhibiting protein tyrosinase. However, niacinamide acts by suppressing the transfer of melanosomes (pigments) from melanocytes to epidermal keratinocyte cells. Niacinamide appears to be as effective in treating melasma as hydroquinone, with the advantage of having fewer side effects.
It can help with acne, and redness, and reduce pore size, thanks to its anti-inflammatory and sebum-control abilities.
The benefit of niacinamide for acne
Factors that contribute to acne include sebum production, bacterial growth, and associated inflammation. Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory, sebum-suppressive, and antibacterial properties, which have shown benefits in treating acne, redness, and acne marks when used topically at 2% and 5% concentrations.
Niacinamide has been shown to have similar benefits to clindamycin, an antibiotic with proven benefits in treating acne. The advantage of niacinamide is that since it is not an antibiotic, there is no problem of developing bacterial resistance.
Things to keep in mind when using Niacinamide
Although niacinamide is well tolerated by the skin, and scientific studies show benefits at concentrations of 2.5% to 5%, some serums have concentrations as high as 10%, which could cause sensitivity if applied directly to the skin. If the serum with 10% niacinamide irritates, we can always mix it with a moisturiser at 1/2 to reduce the concentration to 5%. Another option to avoid irritation is to use them on alternate days (not every day).
High concentrations of 10% help control sebum and the formation of pimples, being ideal for oily skin prone to acne, although they provide benefits for all skin types, even dry.
