Get to know PHAs, the latest trend in exfoliants
You must have heard of various types of facial scrubs. First, we have the mechanical exfoliants, well known for their visible exfoliation based on microparticles, and then the chemical exfoliants, based on acids or enzymes, among which we can find AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids), such as lactic acid or glycolic acid, and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), such as salicylic acid, which we have already talked about in previous posts, such as Chemical or Mechanical Scrubs.
But we already know that advances in cosmetics are constant and new surprising formulas are emerging that seek to adapt to each skin type and provide it with the greatest benefit. With this objective, a new generation of chemical exfoliants, polyhydroxy acids or PHA, has been created.
This new type of chemical exfoliant will surprise you with its versatility when it comes to improving your facial routine and because it is suitable for even the most sensitive skin. PHAs are considered second-generation alpha hydroxy acid, since they act in a similar way to glycolic acid due to their ability to exfoliate at the superficial level of the skin, for their anti-ageing properties, and because they improve tone and help retain hydration.
The best-known PHAs are gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, and these are their main characteristics:
Gluconolactone is obtained by oxidation of corn glucose and we can find it naturally in our skin. The benefits it provides are:
- High moisturising power
- 50% protection against UV rays
- Great antioxidant power and against free radicals
- Similar efficacy to benzoyl peroxide in cases of moderate acne
- Depigmenting action and improvement of luminosity
Lactobionic acid is a complex PHA obtained by the oxidation of lactose. It is considered complex because it binds to sugar particles and prevents the phenomenon called glycation. Glycation damages collagen and elastin, the proteins that, from within, keep skin firm, smooth and wrinkle-free.
Lactobionic acid is used in the latest treatments to recover the most damaged skin. Their characteristics are:
- Increased skin elasticity and improvement of expression lines
- Acts against dark spots and hyperpigmentation
- Delays premature ageing
- Repairs the skin in-depth, helping to reduce scars or marks
- Strengthens the skin barrier of the dermis
Now that we know a little more about this new type of scrub, let’s see how it differs from traditional scrubs and why they’re so great for your skin.
What do PHAs offer compared to AHAs and BHAs?
They differ mainly in their molecular structure. PHAs have a larger molecular size than AHAs and BHAs, so they don’t penetrate deeper layers of the skin. The PHAs work on the superficial layers of this and, therefore, produce a lower degree of irritation than the other exfoliants. They also provide a higher degree of hydration and antioxidant and anti-ageing benefits.
Why should you include PHA in your weekly exfoliation?
Well, apart from the fact that they are suitable for all skin types and that they are very delicate with the most sensitive skin, they give your skin a super moisturising effect, which will help maintain the skin barrier in its optimal state to combat any external agent that wants to weaken it.
In addition, its great antioxidant power prevents sun damage, premature ageing and hyperpigmentation, which are three of the problems that concern our skin so much. They can be combined to enhance the effects and can even be mixed with other chemical exfoliants or with products that contain retinol. Finally, thanks to their anti-inflammatory power, they benefit problem skin, even in cases of acne or eczema.
